WHY WOULD ANYONE ALLOY GOLD

WHY ALLOY GOLD

Gold in its pure form is yellow in color and is called PURE GOLD or FINE GOLD. Its purity represented in KARAT. It is alloyed or mixed with other metals in a consistent blend for the following most important reasons:

To achieve the strength or stability in gold

• Pure gold is very soft and jewelry made in this kind can easily bend and get misshaped. Fine work such as filigree is usually not recommended in pure gold because it can bend out of shape to irreparable extents fairly easily


• Stones set in pure gold can easily fall out because of the softness of the metal holding them. Most commonly plain gold jewelry is made in 22 K in India and 14K or 18 K in the US.


• To make a product in higher karat gold, the thickness of the product has to be considerably increased to increase its stability. Thus you will land up paying more for the same design made in higher karat gold.

To achieve color in gold

Gold in its purest form is yellow. Gold is often alloyed with other metals such as silver, copper, zinc, palladium etc to achieve a whiter or paler look. “White” gold is an extremely pale color of gold which looks almost white. This is usually created in 18 K gold or lesser purity of gold.

• Normally the bright yellow of pure gold reflects off beautifully on darker skin tones. This makes 22 K yellow gold a popular choice in India as well as Africa. However, pale yellow colored jewelry looks beautiful on most paler or lighter colored skins and hence becomes a popular metal in the US, Italy and Australia. White gold is now a popular choice all over the world due to its publicity and resemblance to platinum.


• Other colors in gold are pink gold, purple, black, green and white. These colors depending on the properties of each are used to enhance design without compensating on the value of the product.

Workability increases when the gold is alloyed

• It is simpler to create solder (material used to join two pieces of gold) for a lower karat of gold rather than struggle with achieving the purity of 24 K gold.


• For a craftsman it is easier to work on lower Karat of gold most of the time if the product has to be hand crafted. He has to be much more attentive so as not to ruin his work when working with fine gold.


• For these above reasons, the making or labor charges may be lesser for a lower karat product in gold.

The cost of metal in a product is reduced considerably

• If in a 18K gold product, the value of metal used is $ 750, then the same design made in 24K gold will be $ 1000. The same design in 9K gold will be $ 375 only. Thus in a fixed budget one can get more if they are willing to compensate on the karat value of the metal.


• Since the weight of gold is more than that of silver or copper, (which is the most common alloying metal for making jewelry) hence the mass of 10gm pure gold will be lesser than that of 9 K gold.

• This means that a 10 gm gold bangle in 24 K is smaller to look at than the same design same weight in 9 K gold.

• Due to its softness, the higher the karat of gold, the faster it gets scratches thus requires more frequent polishing and hence the loss of precious material. This wear and tear makes the product look older sooner.

ABOUT THE ALLOYS

Pure or fine gold is 24 K and theoretically this means that the metal has 100% gold content in it.
But for making jewelry, an example of 18 K gold in terms of “fineness” is the gold content expressed in 750 parts per thousand (75.0% gold). The remaining 25% of the metals in this alloy can vary depending upon the property desired.

The percentage of gold in various alloys is given below (the commonly used Karat values are marked in bold).

1. 24 K = 24/24 * 100 = 100 % Gold; no other metal
2. 23 K = 23/24 * 100 = 95.83 % Gold; 4.17 % other metals
3. 22 K = 22/24 * 100 = 91.66 % Gold; 8.34 % other metals
4. 21 K = 21/24 * 100 = 87.5 % Gold; 12.5 % other metals
5. 20 K = 20/24 * 100 = 83.33 % Gold; 16.67 % other metals
6. 19 K = 19/24 * 100 = 79.16 % Gold; 20.84 % other metals
7. 18 K = 18/24 * 100 = 75 % Gold; 25 % other metals
8. 17 K = 17/24 * 100 = 70.83 % Gold; 29.17 % other metals
9. 16 K = 16/24 * 100 = 66.66 % Gold; 33.34 % other metals
10. 15 K = 15/24 * 100 = 62.5 % Gold; 37.5 % other metals
11. 14 K = 14/24 * 100 = 58.33 % Gold; 41.67 % other metals
12. 13 K = 13/24 * 100 = 54.16 % Gold; 45.84 % other metals
13. 12 K = 12/24 * 100 = 50 % Gold; 50 % other metals
14. 11 K = 11/24 * 100 = 45.83 % Gold; 54.17 % other metals
15. 10 K = 10/24 * 100 = 41.66 % Gold; 58.34 % other metals
16. 9 K = 9/24 * 100 = 37.5 % Gold; 62.5 % other metals
17. 8 K = 8/24 * 100 = 33.33 % Gold; 66.67 % other metals

Most jewelry worldwide is marked with the caratage or fineness. This may be part of a Hallmark on the jewelry. To read more about Hallmarking and Assaying of gold, please click here.

Something very interesting about gold alloys is that with varying quantity or percentage of alloying metals used, the physical and chemical properties of that alloy can be very cleverly manipulated. A very common use of this fact is that 18 K white gold and 18 K yellow gold has the same content of gold in them, but the color changes. 18 K pink gold is harder to work with than 18 K yellow gold. To read about these differences and how one can use these in their jewelry, click here.

Oldest Jewelry

This piece of jewelry caught my attention for its simple bold beauty. A simple form linked repetitively in horizontal links creates the subtle boldness reflected in the pure color of gold. The munificent use of gold and the rawness of its texture are what create the stunning appeal to this design.

If you read on further, you will realize that the pricelessness of this fascinating product is further complimented by its historic value…

"The earliest gold jewelry dates from the Sumer civilization in between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers in southern Iraq around 3000 BC. A major archeological find of early jewelry was in the Royal tombs of Ur, in Mesopotamia, dated to around 2,600 BC where gold articles made by lost wax casting included a wild ass on the rein ring of a chariot. Copper and bronze inlaid with gold also date to this period, demonstrating the craft skills in metalworking that existed. A beautifully modeled bull cast in gold dating to 2,300 BC was found in the Caucasus in Eastern Europe. In Egypt, gold jewelry and other artifacts have been found in Pharaoh’s tombs dating to around 1500 BC and later."

Reference:

1. World Gold Council

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Silver vs. Gold

So you are thinking of using Silver ???

Silver being less expensive than gold, sounds like a more feasible option to use instead of white gold. It values not only lesser in dollars per ounce but is also lighter in weight (mass) and hence lesser quantity will be used to create the same piece when compared to gold. (A 10 gm gold bangle will look bigger when made in 10 gms of silver). Usually in the jewelry market we use sterling silver for all purposes of strength and durability.

However, cost sometimes can truly buy quality. In this case, durability at least!!! Silver tarnishes fairly easily when exposed to the atmosphere due to reaction with sulfur present in minute traces in the air. The brownish tint caused by this reaction can be removed by cleaning with regular silver polish available in the market, however it is a repetitive activity. Also such frequent cleaning of the delicate product may render the stones loose from their setting. Silver is a softer metal than gold thus the prongs built in silver to hold the precious stones as well as the links can easily get damaged. Silver gets scratched easily as well.

Most of all, silver is white and only a temporary gold polish can give it the look of yellow present naturally in gold.

But for those who want the benefit of wearing jewelry crafted beautifully in good looking stones without living with the burden of the extreme expense accompanied, silver is a beautiful metal!!!

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Platinum vs. Gold

So you are thinking of using Platinum ???

Platinum is more durable than gold and is known for its hardness and it does not get scratched as easy. Thus very fine details (and faults) on the metal can be easily observed in platinum. It sometimes even looks whiter than gold when rhodium polished. Stones set in platinum are fairly safe from falling off because the prongs are relatively stronger and resist bending braking or wearing out. In short platinum is a more practical metal than gold.

It is however a very heavy metal and much more expensive than gold as well. (A 10 gms platinum bangle will look much smaller than a 10 gm gold bangle). The labor costs involved in handcrafting platinum jewelry is way more than the cost of making gold jewelry. The machinery and equipment are also more expensive for platinum jewelry because of more frequent wear and tear and harder quality which is a hidden cost usually involved in manufacturing platinum jewelry.

In short platinum is more practical metal to make jewelry in for everyday wear such as in wedding bands and engagement rings but for elaborate jewelry such as this one which is not worn so frequently as daily, it may prove to be an impractical expense.

Jewelry however is known to be an aspirational expense and I would not dissuade a person from indulging into platinum for the same reason as all of us love to buy diamonds!!!

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